I-ALOHA SHIRT Igama Intshayelelo
I-ALOHA SHIRT idla ngokubizwa ngokuba yi-HAWAIIAN SHIRT eJapan.Oku kungenxa yokuba igama le-HAWAIIAN SHIRT ngokwayo livela kwizinto ze-kimono ezilethwe ngabemi baseJapan abafudukela eHawaii ngeminyaka yee-1930.Ekuqaleni kwee-1930, ivenkile yempahla yaseJapan e-HONOLULU, eHawaii (MUSASHI SHYODEN.Ltd. - Musashi Shop) yenza iihempe zokuqala zaseHawaii zisebenzisa amalaphu e-kimono ashiyekileyo athunyelwa esuka eJapan ukuba asetyenziswe yi-diaspora yaseJapan eHawaii.Kamva, usomashishini waseTshayina u-ELLERY Chun wafaka isicelo sophawu (ALOHA SPORT WEAR) ngo-1936 kunye nophawu (ALOHA SHIRT) ngo-1937. Emva kweminyaka engama-20, igama lokuthengisa elithi ALOHA SHIRT laliphethwe kuphela, kunye negama elidala (HAWAIIAN SHIRT--- -) isetyenziswe phakathi kwabemi baseJapan, ngoko ke iye yachaphazela umkhwa waseJapan wokuyibiza ngokuba yi-HAWAIIAN SHIRT.
I-ALOHA SHIRT ukuba udidekile ekukhetheni, qala wenze ireferensi kwindwangu!
Ukususela ekuzalweni kwe-ALOHA SHIRT ukuya kwinani leempahla ezisetyenzisiweyo namhlanje, umyalelo kufuneka ube: Ikotoni / i-chemical fiber / i-RAYON / i-silk (Izinto zesilika, ngokuchanekileyo i-ALOHA yazalwa kwiminyaka yokuqala yamaJapan eyafudukela eHawaii ukuguqula ISHIRT yasentshona isebenzisa i-kimono, kwaye i-kimono esetyenziswa kakhulu yisilika eyenziwe ngesilika ye-ALOHA SHIRT, oko kukuthi, i-silika ye-ALOHA SHIRT ikwabizwa ngokuba yi-silk Aloha shirt Yeyona shirt ye-ALOHA ephezulu.
Ukongeza, kunye nemfuno ekhulayo ye-ALOHA SHIRT eHawaii ngenxa yophuhliso lokhenketho olungakumbi nangakumbi, izinto ezahlukeneyo ezidityanisiweyo kunye ne-hemp ziye zavela kwilaphu layo.ISHIRT ALOHAayinayo kuphela iipateni ezintle ezikhethekileyo, kodwa iphinde ibe neenguqulelo ezinemibala emininzi kwiintlobo zezinto eziphathekayo.
Ngoku i-ALOHA SHIRT kwiindwangu ezahlukahlukeneyo nayo i-charm yayo ekhethekileyo.
I-ALOHA SHIRT ilaphu le-RAYON yobukhosi
"Xa kuziwa kwi-ALOHA SHIRT fabric, i-RAYON ibandakanyeka ngokuthe ngqo, kwaye i-RAYON inxulumene kakhulu ne-ALOHA SHIRT."
Umphezulu welaphu leRAYON uziva ngathi umtyibilizi, uthobile ngemvakalelo yobunzima, uguquguquka ngomoya kunye nombala oqinileyo.I-RAYON yinto eyenziwe yaphuhliswa e-United Kingdom ngo-1891, kuba isondele kakhulu kwilaphu lesilika elihloniphekileyo labantu baseBhritane (kukwakho ne-RAYON imathiriyeli eyenziweyo ukuze ithathe indawo yesilika inokuveliswa ngobuninzi kwaye ngexabiso eliphantsi), i umzimba ulungile kwaye unexabiso eliphantsi kwaye womelele.Ngeminyaka yoo-1940 kunye no-1960, i-ALOHA SHIRT yayisetyenziswa kakhulu e-United States kwimpahla yasemkhosini neyasekuhlaleni, eyayiyi-ALOHA SHIRT, ngoko ke impahla ye-RAYON yaba ngummeli wehempe ye-Aloha ngexesha layo.Namhlanje i-VINTAGE (zombini i-physical and vintage reprints) Iihempe ze-ALOHA zenziwe kwizinto ze-RAYON kakhulu.
Iintlobo zelaphu zeRAYON
Iintsiba eziphindwe kabini----------- Imigca ye-warp (ethe nkqo) kunye ne-weft (ethe tye) ilungiswa ngobuchule be-textile obuthe tye kunye nothe nkqo (ukwaluka okucaba) kwe-RAYON ifayibha ende (ifiber ebhityileyo eqhubekayo).Umphezulu ugudile kwaye utyebile ekukhanyeni, kwaye uneempawu zemvakalelo ethambileyo yomzimba.
Iintsiba ezimbini ziyafana nelaphu eliethe-ethe kakhulu nelimhlophe.EYurophu nase-United States, isilika emhlophe ecocekileyo ibizwa ngokuba yi "Habutae" ngesiNgesi.I-RAYON (ilaphu le-RAYON elimhlophe elisulungekileyo elifana nesilika emhlophe esulungekileyo) njengolu hlobo lweentsiba ezimbini lwalusetyenziswa kakhulu kwiihempe ze-ALOHA ngeminyaka yee-1940s nasekuqaleni koo-1950, ingakumbi kwiimveliso ze-ALOHA SHIRT.
I-FUJIET ---------- I-warp (ethe nkqo) yenziwe nge-RAYON ifayibha ende, kwaye i-weft (ethe tye) yenziwe nge-RAYON i-fiber emfutshane (i-short cut waste fiber ------, ixabiso- ukunciphisa indlela yokusetyenziswa kwenkunkuma), ekwalilaphu elithe nkqo nelithe nkqo (i-flat weaving).Ngenxa yokuba i-RAYON fiber ngokwayo ibhityile kakhulu, nokuba kusetyenziswa inani elikhulu leentsiba ezimfutshane, umphezulu welaphu awufani kakhulu nelaphu eliphindwe kabini leRAYON lobude obupheleleyo, kwaye lixabiso eliphantsi kunelaphu eliphindwe kabini leRAYON kwaye linako. zenziwe ngexabiso eliphantsi.
Ngenxa yokuba i-weft yenziwe ngeentsinga ezimfutshane, ilaphu ngokwalo lijiyile kunelaphu leRAYON elinentsiba ezimbini.Kuba imvakalelo isondele kakhulu kwiFUJI SILK, ebizwa ngokuba yiFUJIET.
I-FUJIET yayisetyenziswa kwiihempe ze-ALOHA ukusuka kwi-1950s.I-ALOHA SHIRT kaDuke Kahanamoku yenziwe phantse yonke ngeFUJIET.
Umqhaphu oshwabeneyo eludongeni ----------- I-warp (ethe nkqo) yenziwe ngomsonto ongajikwanga (umsonto welaphu ongajikwanga), kunye ne weft (intambo ethe tye) yenziwe ngomsonto wodonga (nomgca ongundoqo njengo I-axis kunye nentambo yefiber engqindilili ephothiweyo kuyo), kwaye ilaphu elifanayo lenziwe ngolwakhiwo oluthe nkqo olusicaba kunye ne-weft.
Umphezulu wayo unophawu lweconcave-convex.Ngenxa yokuba iqhuma elinjalo lifana kakhulu nephepha lodonga, libizwa ngokuba yi-WALL SILK ngesiNgesi.
Ekuqaleni, olu hlobo lwe-concave kunye ne-convex yelaphu lelaphu lobuchwephesha livela eJapan, izinto ezisetyenziswa eJapan yisilika, yiJapan kuphela esetyenziswe kwikimono, luhlobo lwelaphu lekimono elikumgangatho ophezulu elibonisa ngabom ubuhle beconcave kunye neconvex kunye ukuziva.
Ubuchule obufanayo belaphu basetyenziswa eHawaii phakathi kwiminyaka yoo-1930s nasekuqaleni kweminyaka yee-1950 emva kokuba urhwebo phakathi kweJapan neUnited States luphinde lwavulwa (urhwebo lwayekwa emva kwemfazwe phakathi kweJapan neUnited States), kodwa eli laphu eludongeni eliconcave kunye neconcave. eyenziwe ngeRAYON fiber yayisetyenziswa kwiihempe ze-ALOHA ezineepateni zemveli zekimono zaseJapan.
Ekubeni umphezulu ufana ne-concave kunye ne-convex ye-wallpaper, inye kuphela indlela enokusetyenziswa ukudaya ngesandla ngesandla, ngoko ke abachweli abanjalo abanakuqinisekisa ukuba iindleko zezandla ziyaqhubeka zikhula, kunye nenkqubela phambili yemveliso yobuninzi, amalaphu akasabonakali emva kweminyaka yoo-1960.
I-RAYON ye-ALOHA SHIRT nayo inobuthakathaka.Okokuthi, kuya kubakho ukuncipha okuchatshazelwa yindlela yokucoca, kwaye i-shrinkage inzima kakhulu.Ngoko kungcono ukuchitha imali eninzi ukuthumela kwindawo ekhethekileyo yokuhlamba impahla yokucoca.Ukuba uyazicoca, guqa ngobunono kangangoko.
Kukho kwakhona "Andikwazi ukwenza ucoceko olunzima kangaka, kodwa ndixove kancinci, kwaye ndithunyelwe kwindawo yokuhlamba?"Okanye khetha "Enjani yona isibongozo esimnandi!"Bahlobo, ke faka ngqo kumatshini wokuhlamba ukuba uhlambe kulungile, kodwa kungcono ukubeka umnatha wokuhlamba impahla ukukhusela ilaphu ekuhlambeni.
Ukuba kukho abahlobo abamele bafune ukwazi indlela yokucoca i-ALOHA SHIRT njengendlela engcono kakhulu, uze wenze isingeniso esikhethekileyo kamva.
ALOHA ISHIRT ukumkanikazi ilaphu -- SILK
Kwimbali yeISHIRT ALOHA, ekuqaleni yayisenziwa kwiikimono eziziswa ngabaphambukeli baseJapan eHawaii.Ngoko ke, izinto ezixabisekileyo zekimono ziyi-silk yezinto zesilika, i-ALOHA SHIRT yezinto ze-silk nayo i-ALOHA SHIRT ephezulu kakhulu, kodwa kunye neyona nto yokuqala kunye neyona mihla.Enoba yimpahla yekimono okanye yasentshona, isilika ibisoloko imisela umgangatho wezinto ezikumgangatho ophezulu.
Ukusuka kwimpucuko yoBuyiselo lweMeiji yaseJapan ukuya kwinguqu kwezemizi-mveliso, emva kwemfazwe yangaphambi kwemfazwe yexesha leTaisho/Showa, isilika ikwindawo ebalulekileyo ekuthumeleni eJapan imathiriyeli yorhwebo.Itekhnoloji yeSericulture kunye netekhnoloji yesilika yavela eTshayina, kodwa yasasazeka kumazwe aseYurophu, kodwa ngenkuthalo kunye nokusebenza nzima kwamagcisa aseJapan ngokwawo, iimveliso zesilika ezikumgangatho wehlabathi zadalwa kwangoko, kwangethuba kwiQing Dynasty, isilika yaseJapan yathengiswa. ndibuyele eTshayina, edume kakhulu.Ke ngoko, isilika yaseJapan yanconywa ngabaseNtshona, kwaye kamva ibonakaliswe kwi-ALOHA SHIRT exatyiswa kakhulu.
Isilika yenziwe ngezinto zesilika, ngoko inokudaywa kuphela ngesandla, ngoko ixabiso liphezulu.Iihempe ze-ALOHA (kunye nezinye izambatho) ezenziwe ngesilika zenziwe ngokwesiko kwasekuqaleni kwe-1930 kunye no-1950.
Ke ngoko, izinto ze-VINTAGE zinqabile kwaye zibiza kakhulu, kwaye kunzima kwiimpawu zanamhlanje zokuzala ukusebenzisa amalaphu anjalo ukuvelisa.Ngamanye amaxesha kukho imizobo ye-brand, ixabiso layo alikho phantsi kwaye inani lincinci kakhulu, ngoko ke ukusetyenziswa kweendlela zakudala ezilukiweyo zezinto zesilika ze-ALOHA SHIRT zingabizwa ngokuba yimikrolo ye-ALOHA SHIRT yeyona nto ingcono.
Imvakalelo yolusu yelaphu lesilika ilungile kakhulu, njengempahla yangaphantsi kwakudala kwase China kunye nabase Europe nabaseMelika bathanda, isilika yinto ecocekileyo yendalo, ke abantu abanokwaliwa lusu banokusebenzisa, izinto zesilika zinokukhanya okomileyo kunye nomoya ophefumlayo. , ukukhanya kwelanga lasehlotyeni kunokukhusela ulusu ngexesha elifanayo lomile kwaye liphefumula.Oku akunakuthathelwa indawo yenye into.
Ubuthathaka bezinto zesilika kukoyika ukukhukuliseka kokubila, ngoko ke kufuneka kuhlanjwe rhoqo, kuthambile kakhulu kwaye kunzima ukunyamekela izinto eziphathekayo, indlela yokucoca nayo iyinkathazo ngakumbi, kulula ukudliwa yizinambuzane, kwaye ukugcinwa kwesigxothi sezinambuzane kuyimfuneko.Njengomfazi obuthathaka ofuna ukunyanyekelwa.
Ukuza kuthi ga ngoku, kukho inani elikhuluISHIRT ALOHAamalaphu ---- umqhaphu ococekileyo
Umqhaphu yinto entle kakhulu.Impahla ngokwayo kulula ukuyithenga ngobuninzi, kunye neehempe ze-ALOHA ezenziwe ngekotoni zibe zixabiso eliphantsi kwaye zininzi.Ihlala ixesha elide kwaye kulula ukuyicoca xa uthanda.Ukongeza, ingcono kakhulu kune-RAYON kunye nesilika kwi-sweat sweat.
Kukho phantse akukho buthathaka, ukuba ubuthathaka, ukongeza ukushwabana okufanayo kunye nemibimbi, oko kukuthi, emva kwexesha elide lokusetyenziswa kunye nokucoca emva kombala olula ngaphezu kwezinye izinto, kodwa abanye abantu bacinga ukuba oku kwakhona incasa.
I-ALOHA SHIRT yeemveliso zekotoni yaqala ukuzalwa phakathi kwe-1950 kwaye ngoku i-ALOHA SHIRT indwangu, eyazalelwa kakhulu e-United States ngenxa yempembelelo ye-ALOHA SHIRT.Emva kwexesha, imimandla yobuvulindlela be-ALOHA SHIRT efana neHawaii yaqala ukuvelisa ngobuninzi iimveliso ezingabizi kakhulu ukuze kubuyiselwe iimveliso ezibizayo kuluntu.
Iikhati ze-ALOHA zingathengwa phantse naphi na kule mihla, kubandakanywa eHawaii, kodwa ezininzi zenziwe ngekotoni kwaye zinamhlanje.Ukuba ufuna ukuthenga ipateni ye-ALOHA SHIRT ukusuka kwi-1950s, ungathenga kuphela ipateni ye-ALOHA SHIRT / ukugqiba / kunye nomzekelo we-American Aloha shirt yokuqala kwikotoni kuphela xa ukhetha i-replica eyahlukeneyo.
Loluphi uhlobo lweSHIRT ye-ALOHA endifanele ndiyithenge?
Ukongeza kwiimpahla ezikhankanywe ngasentla, kukho iikhati ze-ALOHA ezenziwe ngezinto ezidibeneyo ezifana ne-chemical fiber.Ekubeni ngokusisiseko ayizange ibonakale kwi-golden age ye-ALOHA SHIRT e-United States kwixesha elidlulileyo, isetyenziswa kwiihempe zeentyatyambo ezifanayo namhlanje (iihempe zeentyantyambo eziqhelekileyo ezifanayo nezo zabasetyhini abaneminyaka ephakathi kunye nasebekhulile e-China), asiyontshayelelo emfutshane.
Ke nokuba uthenga iSHIRT ye-ALOHA yokwenyani, kufuneka uqale uqwalasele izinto ezimbini:
I-1) Ndiyathanda iimodeli zanamhlanje kunye nendawo yonke (i-Hawaii yokubona iimveliso zasekhaya).
I-2) Thanda iphethini ye-ALOHA SHIRT kunye nombala wexesha elidala legolide laseMelika.
Emva kokuthatha isigqibo se-1) okanye i-2) ngasentla, qwalasela umahluko phakathi kweendwangu kunye nokwahlukana okufihlakeleyo kwemvelaphi emelwe yilaphu ngalinye.Enyanisweni, kukho iiyantlukwano ezininzi ezifihlakeleyo, ngakumbi kwixesha elidlulileyo xa i-ALOHA SHIRT yayithandwa kakhulu e-United States.
------------------- yipateni yemveli yaseJapan.Ezinje: i-carp, iNtaba iFuji, njalo-njalo kwiipateni ezingenakuphindaphinda.Zonke zivela kwiipateni kwiikimono zemveli zaseJapan.
Umqheba waseNtshona -------------------- iipateni ezithandwayo zaseNtshona.Okunje: oyena ummeli ngumzekelo weentyatyambo zaseHawaii, i-ananas, umthi wekakhukhunathi kunye nokunye.
プルオーバー -----------XHAPHALuhlobo lokutsalwa.
Emva koko, siya kuqhubeka nokuzisa enye yeengongoma eziphambili ze-ALOHA SHIRT charm "amaqhosha".
Ukuthetha nge "iqhosha" kwakhona kudlala indima ebalulekileyo kwi-charm ye-ALOHA SHIRT.Kukho neentlobo ezininzi zamaqhosha asetyenziswa kwiihempe ze-ALOHA.Amaqhosha ahlukeneyo adala i-ALOHA SHIRT eyahlukileyo.
Amaqhosha aqhelekileyo ngala: i-bamboo / i-coconut / igobolondo / isinyithi, njl. Kumaxesha anamhlanje, kukho iinkqubo zeglasi ze-urea / eziphilayo.Amaqhosha ezinto ezifanayo anobukhulu obuhlukeneyo kunye neemilo, kunye neempawu ezahlukeneyo zivakalelwa ngokwahlukileyo.Into ebalulekileyo kukuba amaqhosha ahluke ngamaxesha ahlukeneyo kunye nemimandla, kwaye amaqhosha kwii-shirts ze-ALOHA ahluke ngokwexesha apho iikhati ze-Aloha zithengiswa.Ingcaphephe ye-ALOHA SHIRT abacalucalulo banokugqiba ixesha lokuvelisa i-ALOHA SHIRT esekelwe kumaqhosha.
Ezi zilandelayo ziintlobo eziphambili kunye neempawu zamaqhosha
I-bamboo --------------- Ukusetyenziswa kwe-bamboo enezicubu ezixineneyo zefiber, isanti kunye nokusetyenziswa kwexesha elide kuya kubonakala kumbala omdaka omnyama.Uxinaniso lwefiber tissue kufutshane nengcambu yoqalo luphezulu.Ipateni yemveli yaseJapan i-ALOHA SHIRT kwiminyaka yoo-1950 yayisetyenziswa kakhulu eli qhosha le-bamboo, kuba i-bamboo enye inokusebenzisa ingcambu kuphela, ubungakanani bezinto eziqokelelweyo eziqokelelweyo azinkulu, kwaye inkqubo yokupolisha iqhosha yenziwe ngesandla ngokupheleleyo, ngoko yayisetyenziswa kuphela kwi-ALOHA. IHEPA ngaphambi kowe-1930 ukusa phakathi kowe-1950.
Ikhokhonathi ---------------- Amaqhosha enziwe ngokujika kwekhokhonathi nawo angawona maqhosha aqhelekileyo.Izinto eziphathekayo zilula ukukrola izitayela ezahlukeneyo kunye nobukhulu obuhlukeneyo.Abavelisi be-ALOHA SHIRT baseHawaii ukusuka kwi-1930 ukuya kwi-1950s basebenzisa eli qhosha ubukhulu becala kwiihempe ze-ALOHA ezineepateni zeentyatyambo ze-Western.
Iqokobhe --------------- Usebenzisa iqokobhe lebhabhathane elimhlophe/iqokobhe lebhabhathane elimnyama lijike linamaqhosha, linengqiqo ecacileyo kunye nokubengezela okuhle.Yayisetyenziswa kakhulu kwiihempe zaseJapan ezinepateni zakuqala koo-1930 kunye neehempe ze-ALOHA ezenziwe ngesilika emva kwemfazwe.Isetyenziswe kwi-SHIRT yexabiso eliphezulu eliphezulu.Nangakumbi ngamaqhosha angcolisa amaqokobhe ukubanika umbala owahlukileyo.
Amaqhosha esinyithi ---------------- Amaqhosha entsimbi.Umphezulu weqhosha udla ngokwenziwa ngemali yamandulo/ubuso becala lomkhosi/uKumkani uKAMEHAMEHA (inkosi yaseHawaii yoMthonyama)/heraldry njl. Ukusukela phakathi kwiminyaka yoo-1950s, ukuze ukongeza intsingiselo ethile yesikhumbuzo kwaye uncamathisele ingqiqo yezinga eliphezulu, iye yanengqiqo. isetyenziswe kumalaphu esilika (isilika) kunye neehempe ze-ALOHA ezineempawu ezithile zesikhumbuzo.
Ixesha lokuposa: Jan-04-2024
